Historical Sketch - Chemung, 1919 Author - Rev. Ezra O. Morgan
Typed Verbatim by Mary Ellen Kunst
We know today some of the dates and facts in this story are not correct. Although it is an entertaining article with the older style of writing and it is an interesting article, but elsewhere in this website are the correct dates and information.Please do not quote this information as factual.
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The history of the Chemung Methodist Episcopal Circuit stretches back into the shadowy past, in which the wear of a hundred years has blurred the details. But, whatever those details may have been, the Circuit stands today as a great monument to the sturdy Christian character of the men and women who have passed this way before.
There is room here only for the very briefest outline. However, it might be illuminating if we allow space to review a few of the outstanding facts in the early history of the Chemung Valley and particularly that part of the Valley which has given birth, in this past hundred years, to the Chemung Circuit.
It seems hardly possible for us living here today to realize that a hundred and fifty years ago this beautiful Chemung Valley was entirely unknown to the civilized world. But such is the historical fact. However, it is evident that the white had been in the Valley at a very early date. For just east of our village, was known by the name "Spanish Hill". This name tells the tale of the white man's early coming, but we nowhere find any evidence that he elected to remain, until a very recent date. A company or Spaniards in the early days of the sixteenth century, set out in search of gold and treasure. They left Florida and by taking a northerly course, they passed directly through the Chemung Valley, and continued on until they reached the shores of Lake Ontario. Whether they found the quest of their search is not definitely known. But this is sure, they did not tarry long in the Valley of the Chemung, and left nothing behind them save the first name, which they gave to the Waverly Hill. And so, for many years afterward, the Chemung Valley remained unknown to the outside world, except to occasional wanderers who chanced to pass this way.
It was in 1777 that the beauties, and the richness of the Chemung Valley were revealed to the world and to civilization. In that year the Valley was, in a sense, first discovered by the men in General Sullivan's army. The soldiers were not long in taking the news of this new land they had found to the outside world. They proclaimed that a sort of "Canaan" had been discovered. It was a land that flowed with milk and honey; with soil so fertile that the corn stalks grew to the height of sixteen feet on the average; while the pumpkins and watermelons swelled to such an enormous size that a single one made a good load for a horse to drag down the side hill. Very naturally these tales soon brought a ripple of Imigration. And also at the close of the war many of the soldiers themselves returned to make their future homes in the Chemung Valley. One of these was Elijah Buck, who after he had been mustered out of the Continental Army, in New Jersey, returned and built his home on the site where the present residence of John Skinner stands today, in the center of our village.
The Indians living in the Chemung Valley, before the coming of civilization and remaining for a short time after, belonged to the tribe of Senecas. This tribe was also a member of that famous Iroquois Confederacy. When Sulllivan and his army arrived there were perhaps nine Indian villages belonging to this tribe, scattered up and down the valley. One of these stood on the present site of te Chemung village. For some reason the Indians abandoned this location before Sullivan's program of annihilation was put into operation. But they had a more prosperous village, if any of them could be called prosperous, located on the banks of the Chemung river and just west of the Chemung narrows. This village was called New Chemung, and like all the rest of the Red Man's villages in the valley, went the way of fire and destruction at the hands of Sullivan's army.
The Chemung Valley takes its name from the name of the river that flows through it. The Chemung river was also at one time called Tioga river. The name Chemung is an Indian name, derived from the language of the Senecas. Its translation into English is "Big Horn". This rather strange name finds its origin in the discovery of two big horns or tusks which were one time dug up out of the banks of the river. These horns belonged to the age when the Megatherium, or the Mastodon, roambed our valley, and came down to the banks of its river to drink. One of the horns was very carelessly lost from a blacksmith shop, where it had been taken to have an iron ring fastened around it, in order that it might be hung up. The other is still preserved and today is in the city of Quebec, Canada. The name Chemung is a familiar name in the scientific world. In the text books on geology there is a group of rocks named the "Chemung Group." These rocks belonging to the Pa;eozoic age, are found in more prominence and distinction in the Chemung Valley than in any other place on the earth's surface. There was a day, also, when the name Chemung meant standard and unequaled quality in the commercial world. This was true at least in the lines of two commodities. The fame of Chemung lumber and Chemung butter spread far up and down the Atlantic coast. Although the day of lumber has passed, we doubt today if there is another label in the line of butter that insures a better quality than that sold under the Chemung label.
Very soon after 1777 people from every direction began to move into the Chemung Valley. They bought land, cleared it, tilled the virgin soil, and built homes.They brought with them their civilization, their religion, their laws and their pioneer strength and ideals. And in a remarkably short time the Valley became a bee hive of industry. Villages began to spring up in every section, some of them remaining villages to this day, but some of them soon growing into cities. The first spot in the Valley said to have been settled by these early pioneers was the present site of our village of Chemung. The settlers soon made Chemung, then the village of Buckville, one of the most noted villages in the whole valley.
In those days of settling, clearing an building, the hills and valleys among which the Chemung Circuit has developed and grown, were covered, except where the Indians had alreay cleared the ground, with a virgin growth of choice timber, in hemlock, pine, and oak. Naturally the first and chief industry became lumbering. And very much of the modest wealth about Chemung today finds its origin in those virgin forests and early saw mills. The busiest years of the lumbermen about Chemung lasted until 1855. But in the year 1860 the lumber business took a new boom, in the phase of stripping and shipping bark. In that year the tanneries began to use bark in their industry and lumbering in this phase became a very profitable vocation again in Chemung. It was in that year of 1860 that Harry and Jesse Owen Co. built their mill, largely for the purpose of stripping bark. This mill was built on a piece of ground not far from where our church stands at the present time at Owens Mills. The Ruggles were among the early founders of Methodism at Chemung and they are on record, doing business under the firm name of Charles Ruggles & Son, as having shipped from Chemung in 1882, 1300 tons of bark.
In those days of settling, clearing an building, the hills and valleys among which the Chemung Circuit has developed and grown, were covered, except where the Indians had alreay cleared the ground, with a virgin growth of choice timber, in hemlock, pine, and oak. Naturally the first and chief industry became lumbering. And very much of the modest wealth about Chemung today finds its origin in those virgin forests and early saw mills. The busiest years of the lumbermen about Chemung lasted until 1855. But in the year 1860 the lumber business took a new boom, in the phase of stripping and shipping bark. In that year the tanneries began to use bark in their industry and lumbering in this phase became a very profitable vocation again in Chemung. It was in that year of 1860 that Harry and Jesse Owen Co. built their mill, largely for the purpose of stripping bark. This mill was built on a piece of ground not far from where our church stands at the present time at Owens Mills. The Ruggles were among the early founders of Methodism at Chemung and they are on record, doing business under the firm name of Charles Ruggles & Son, as having shipped from Chemung in 1882, 1300 tons of bark.
There is a host of names associated with the early days of clearing away the forests and subduing the fields in the territory which our Circuit now covers, but space will not permit even their mention. Perhaps the two names that stand out most prominently in the development and growth of our village are the names of Buck and Wynkoop.
The Bucks came from New Milford, Conn., and it was Elijah, son of William Buck, who laid the foundations for the present village of Chemung. In fact the village, which soon sprang up here after his coming, was in some respects superior to the present village, and while the village has developed in some ways, it may be said in some other regards that it shows signs today of deterioration, as compared with those flourishing days seventy-five years ago. The village which Elijah Buck and his sons had to prominent a part in building soon took on growth religiously and civilly. It was named after its founder and was known for more than half a century as Buckville. The first mail was delivered in the place by runner, before 1870, to the officers in General Sullivan's army. But the village of Buckville very soon became a postoffice and received mail reularly at least twice a week. Elijah Buck was made the first postmaster in 1801. He also opened and conducted the first general store, but he seemed to have more gifted ability for the hotel business. He was the proprietor of Buckville's famous tavern, which stood on the site of Mr. Skinner's present home. As the business grew, the original building was enlarged and added to until at the end of fifty year's additions the tavern, or Buck's apartment house, as it was also known, presented a rather strange sight to the eye that had a special love for the architecturally beautiful. This building, as were all the other original buildings in the center of the village, was destroyed by fire. The present buildingswere built on the same sites of the original buildings. The Ruggles seem to have been the first really successful merchants in the place. Their first store was burned to the ground, but in four weeks a new store was built, and business was being carried on as usual. W.D. Morley is now doing business in the store once occupied by the Ruggles. Both the Ruggles and the Bucks were among the early founders of Methodism in Chemung.
The Bucks came from New Milford, Conn., and it was Elijah, son of William Buck, who laid the foundations for the present village of Chemung. In fact the village, which soon sprang up here after his coming, was in some respects superior to the present village, and while the village has developed in some ways, it may be said in some other regards that it shows signs today of deterioration, as compared with those flourishing days seventy-five years ago. The village which Elijah Buck and his sons had to prominent a part in building soon took on growth religiously and civilly. It was named after its founder and was known for more than half a century as Buckville. The first mail was delivered in the place by runner, before 1870, to the officers in General Sullivan's army. But the village of Buckville very soon became a postoffice and received mail reularly at least twice a week. Elijah Buck was made the first postmaster in 1801. He also opened and conducted the first general store, but he seemed to have more gifted ability for the hotel business. He was the proprietor of Buckville's famous tavern, which stood on the site of Mr. Skinner's present home. As the business grew, the original building was enlarged and added to until at the end of fifty year's additions the tavern, or Buck's apartment house, as it was also known, presented a rather strange sight to the eye that had a special love for the architecturally beautiful. This building, as were all the other original buildings in the center of the village, was destroyed by fire. The present buildingswere built on the same sites of the original buildings. The Ruggles seem to have been the first really successful merchants in the place. Their first store was burned to the ground, but in four weeks a new store was built, and business was being carried on as usual. W.D. Morley is now doing business in the store once occupied by the Ruggles. Both the Ruggles and the Bucks were among the early founders of Methodism in Chemung.
Major William Wynkoop was perhaps equally prominent with Elijah Buck in the early history of Chemung. He built and conducted the first tavern in 1788. An identation in the ground just east of the property of J. S. Holbert today marks the spot where the foundations of this old tavern once stood. He built thfe first frame house in the village, probably across the street from the present home of James Owen. The lumber in this house came out of the woods near by and was cut by the old whip saw in one of those early saw mills. Asa Parshall built the first brick house in 1829. This house still stands just west of the village. Major Wynkoop also built the first mill in the village. This was a grist mill, and the venture gave inspiration to others. Very soon both saw mills and grist mills began to spring up all along the banks of the Wynkoop Creek. The elder Joseph Swain probably built the next mill, about a mile up the creek. The present mill operated by the Warrens traces back to one of these original mills. The first school was held in the weaving room of Major Wynkoop's house. Samuel Walker, teacher of this first school, was one night treacherously killed by the Indians. There are many things which will make Major Wynkoop's name memorable, but he will always be remembered by the living name of Wynkoop Creek. This little stream was named years agp in jonor of this illustrious citizen. The name seems to have stood the test of the years better than the name of Buckville.
The days when Chemung was really famous were the days under its maiden name of Buckville. Then it was a much more independent village than it is today. They were the days before the railroad or the street car, days when the stage coach line ran through the center of the village, where now the street car tracks are laid, and Chemung could then boast of two first class taverns, where travelers, if at all possible, would endeavor to make Buckville by night, for it was one of the best stopping places along the line. Today travelers make Elmira the objective but in those days people had more time than they have today. Everyone took pride in his village and the log meeting house was the most popular and influential institution in the place. They were days when Buckville could have lived, even though a railroads strike might have shut it off from the outside world. They were the days of homespun cloth and when every household was a little world in itself. They were the days when a large share of the marketing was done in New York City. What the farm produced and the household manufactured, was in the fall loaded into wagons and the early farmer of Chemung, with his wife and family, would drive into the big city, some 260 miles away, where they would trade and sell the treasure from the farm, and come back a month or two later with a wagon load of flour and the many, many things that would be needed on the farm for the winter and coming season. This regular fall trip was looked forward to. In those days before the coming of Major Wynkoop's mill, the grist was loaded into canoes and carried as far down the Chemung river as Wilkes-Barre, to be ground. There are none living today who can remember the busy days of the canal, but there may be some who still Grange was remember the coming of the Erie Railroad in 1851, and they remember what a great benefit came to Chemung, although the village did sacrifice its fame. There may yet be some who remember the coming of the first Masonic lodge to Chemung, which was established in 1854. And beyond a doubt there are many who remember when the Grange was chartered in 1874. One of the greatest blessings came to the people in this section of the Valley, when in 1869, by an act of the Legislature, Myamin Griswold, Jesse Owen and Henry Baker were appointed as commissioners to build a bridge across the Chemung River, at a cost not to exceed $18,000. The present Wilawana bridge was completed four years later, and the old style ferry boat to Orcutt Creek passed out.
In the foregoing facts very little has been said of the religious development. But as this section of the Chemung Valley developed in every phase of civilization, the religious phase grew quite as rapidly as did any other. The early comers brought their religion with them, and they laid the foundations of the present Chemung Circuit. It is quite probable that Wilawana had the first religious organization in this section. This was a Methodist class, and may go back as far as 1795. There was a Baptist class at Dry Brook, but none at Chemung, a few years before the definite organization of a Methodist class in the village. There were Methodists living at Buckville as far back as 1780, but the first class was not organized until 1819, just one hundred years ago, and just about a half century after the first methodist society was organized in America. Oak Hill followed and a class was organized there one year later, in 1820. Then came Rose Valley in 1860. This is no longer a separate point of the circuit, and the membership there has been transferred to the Wellsburg charge. Owens Mills was the last point to be organized. Owens and Baptist preachers serving it, but finally by a unanimous vote it was organized into a Methodist society in 1899.
The organization of the Methodist class at Buckville grew out of a religious revival, which swept through the whole Chemung Valley. This revival, may, directly or indirectly, be traced to the efforts of that early Methodist, Thomas Webb, a captain in the British army. As a result of that revival a Methodist class was organized at Buckville in 1819. There were no church records kept before 1861 and as a result the names and details of those first years are, for the most part, lost. However, the names of a few who were converted in that revival over a hundred years ago have been found. The first class was only thirty in number, but it was the beginning of the Chemung M.E. Church of today. The few names I have are: Jerry Holland and wife, James Ribble and wife, Epenetus Owen and wife, Philip McConnell and wife, William Kellogg, Stephen Vaderlip, Nancy Floyd, Julia Wynkoop, Katie Floyd, Betsey Swain and Treadway Kellogg. The names of Swain and Floyd are the only living names in our church today.
This first class of thirty converts held their first meeting in a little log meeting jouse that stood in the lower end of the village near Wynkoop Creek. In this little log meeting house the founders of Chemung Methodism continued to worship their God until 1838. In that year a modest frame church was built on a piece of ground just a little east of Wynkoop Creek. Here our forefathers worshipped for about ten years. In 1849 the Erie Railroad got its right of way through Chemung and it was found that the road bed would pass directly through the Methodist church property. So the trustees were compelled to sell the property to the railroad. It is claimed that this first frame church, at least in part, still stands today neanr its original location, and has been remodeled into a barn.
After the transaction with the railroad had been closed, the Methodist society moved up into the center of the village for a church site and in 1850 our present church was built at a cost of $1, 500. This price is certainly low, as compared with prices today. It is estimated that the same church could not be built today for less than $12,000. Our church building stands today nearly as it was originally built in 1850. The few changes have been made on the interior. The heating system has been changed, and is still in need of change. There are those, particularly some janitors, still living who have a vivid recollection of the old oil lamps once used for light, before the present system of electric lights was installed a few years ago. There are those still living who can also remember the old style, family box pew, with the one center aisle.
The first presiding elder the Chemung charge ever had was the Rev. Horace Agard. One of the first pastors to serve the charge was an old time horseback circuit rider, the Rev. Sophronus Stocking. No doubt Chemung at that time was just one point on Rev. Stocking's circuit, which in point of territory may have been as large as the whole Elmira District of today. But in those days if the paster was not seen but once in two months we had class leaders who were fully capable of taking his place, and in sheparding the flock during his absence. Our first resident pastor was the Rev. William H. Pearne. He may have served the charge along about 1840. The names of our first official board, after the church records came into use, were found, written by the Rev. E. H. Cranmer in 1863, on the fly-leaf of our oldest record book. They are: S.L. Congdon, presiding elder; E.H. Cranmer, pastor in charge; J.H. Fausey, supply preacher; G.W. Buck, recording steward; stewards, C.H. Peppard, A.W. Smith Owen Swain, J.M. Blauvelt, John Greatsinger, David Gardner, Charles Ruggles, J.S. McDowell; class leaders, John Joslin, Samuel Drake Gordon Snell, J.V. Scott, Oak Hill; William Greatsinger Francis H. Arnold, Orcutt Creek, now Wilawana.
The first recorded birth was that of Morris Catlin, to Mr. Israel and Ditha Catlin. The first death was that of William Bosworth, who died in 1790. He was an uncle to Elijah Buck. The first wedding was that of Guy Maxwell to Eleanor VanStienburg. The bride was a step-daughter to Major William Wynkoop. The oldest baptism where exact dates can be found was that of John Carner. He was baptized on November 24, 1861, by Rev. G. J. DuBois. The oldest exact date of reception into church membership, since that class of tjirty in 1819, is June 24, 1964. On that date Rev. E.H. Cranmer received John Rogers from probation and he joined Brother John Joslin's class.